Day 20 - Painful Memories

Today I walked from Coverack to Cadgwith cove and back.

When I was a younger man, a friend and I decided to walk from Penzance to Falmouth over the course of four days, carrying packs with tent, gas stoves, sleeping bags etc.

Day one and two were really enjoyable and got us to the Lizard village. The section from Lizard to Porthallow (and especially Cadgwith to Coverack) nearly killed us!

Why do I bring this up? because today was just as tough as it was all those years ago!

Carrying nothing (except a few extra pounds around the waist) I really found today tough going especially on the soles of the feet.

The path between these two points is extremely rocky, with certain sections requiring the walker to almost climb over boulders blocking the path. It really does take its toll.

Despite that, the walk is one that provides pleasant views and several different points of interest.

Starting at Coverack, there is a tiny harbour at the far western end of the Cove that the village now spreads around which houses a small fishing fleet and once housed a lifeboat (station closed in 1978). The Paris Inn is named after a large liner that was stranded on this dangerous coast in 1899.

Leaving the village up the steep road leading away from the harbour, the coastal path passes along the front of a line of cottages, before offering two routes. The official path heads down and around the cliffs, whilst the alternative route continues on past more cottages before some steps lead into a wooded area. Around half a mile along the alternative route lies the Coverack sculpture park, where those with a more artistic outlook than mine, will no doubt enjoy the varied sculptures set in grassland http://terencecoventry.com/sculpture-park-2/.

Walk another half mile past the sculpture park and you will rejoin the coastal path (ready for some ups and downs and rocky roads?).

The Path eventually climbs up to Black Head with its coast guard lookout point and impressive view towards Lizard Point.

With a storm predicted this evening, there were several merchant vessels at anchor between here and Falmouth. The clouds looked threatening, but I am glad to report ess than a millimeter of rain landed!

The path then wind sits way up down and around cliffs for around four miles before you arrive at Kennack sands where you can rest on the beach and perhaps get a cup of tea or a bite to eat.

Leaving Kennack Sands along / up the road the path eventually snakes off to the left. After crossing the pitch and putt golf course of the Holiday park, you come to the remains of several buildings in the area known as Poltesco. Now looked after by the National Trust, the area was site of a Serpentine factory in the Victorian era ( https://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/lizard-point-and-kynance-cove/trails/mills-fishing-and-serpentine-walk )

A fairly steep and long climb out of Poltesco brings you to a small headland and leads down into Cadgwith, a 'proper' Cornish fishing village with an Inn (that I'm sure would be very welcoming were it open (Corona Virus again!)

The problem with my walk is this - For the outward part of the walk, every step is counter-intuitive (you don't walk away from where you are going) and then, especially today, the fatigue on the way back doesn't help your enjoyment levels of the history / scenery / wildlife (a Cuckoo was heard today!).

Take my advice, if you do these walks, do them one way only!