Day 21 - A good walk spoiled

Today's walk was brought forward in the schedule after the governments announcement that the lock-down will be relaxed from July 04th and people will be allowed to go on holiday. This part of the Cornish coast attracts a great number of those that I affectionately call 'scum' and is the town which sums up seaside Britain's decay - Newquay. I am sure that the original residents of Newquay are fine upstanding people and many of the newer residents are as well. The problem seems to be that Newquay attracts those that one could politely place at the lower end of the intelligence scale, leading to lots of those Sportsdirect clad, heavily tattoo'd, vaping types.

Yes, today's walk was from Watergate Bay to the Newquay bank of the Gannel river (opposite Crantock Beach), which takes you right through the heart of Newquay.

Starting at Watergate Bay, it was a little cooler than it has been and, with a breeze blowing, felt a little cold at times.

However, the climb out of the bay is gentle and soon warms you up.

The first point of interest is Porth beach, in the village of St. Columb Porth. The beach is Sandy and sheltered, with good waves on the tides. The main interest (for me) was Trevelgue head (an island reached by a small bridge) which was the site of an Iron Age settlement dating back to 100 - 400BC. Archaeological digs have found evidence that the island community actually had a field system for their agriculture (unique amongst Iron age sites in Cornwall).

The view from Trevelgue head to Porth beach (below) shows deep the beach at High tide.

St. Columb Porth as been all but swallowed up by Newquay nowadays, meaning only a five to ten minute walk brings you to the main drag and shops of Newquay. Beer cans and Bottles are a common site (even during lock-down) and dog mess adds further to the blight. There are a few things that provide interest in Newquay, but the surfing culture is the predominant draw.

The beaches on the Northen side of Towan head have buildings of note; Tolcarne beach has several buildings sited at the back of the beach underneath the tall cliffs (I imagine storms cause considerable damage), Great Western Beach is the same, whilst Towans Beach has a house perched on an tower of rock, joined to the mainland by it's own suspension bridge! This is of course a Holiday let, like so many of the beautiful buildings around Cornwall. https://boutique-retreats.co.uk/luxury-cottages-cornwall/newquay/the%20island-86.html

Above the harbour sits the Huers hut, a strange building that was apparently manned by men looking out for Pilchard shoals!

https://www.visitnewquay.org/explore/huers-hut

Shortly after the Huers hut is Towan head, a long finger of land with a white look out point at it's tip. I made the walk out to the end (only to discover a collection of beer bottles in the hut!). The vantage point gives a good view of the coast from Trevose Head, all the way round to Pentire head.

The path runs along the coast, past the Headland hotel, an impressive looking structure with views across all of the area. After that the path runs between Newquay Golf Course and Fistral Beach before another long thin Headland (Pentire Head).

The area from the Headland Hotel round to the River Gannel is considered the posh end of Newquay, Fitsral Beach is the main surfers destination and the prestigious Boardmasters competition is held here each year.

After Pentire Head, it is a short walk to the River Gannel crossing points (of which there are several) - they are hidden away slightly, most of them are seasonal or tidal, so if you plan to walk across one of the small wooden unrailed bridges, make sure you know your tide times!

The view across to Crantock beach is a fine one.

On my way back, I made a small detour that took me past the Pentire Hotel, site of my wedding reception 23 years ago (just gone) - It's quieter than I remember it being that night, what a day, what a party!