Day 43 - A path less trodden.

During the previous 42 days that I have been walking the Cornish coast path, there have been days that I wasn't up for it, or the weather put a dampner on it, but never has there been a day when the walk just wasn't all that interesting, until today.

Walking from Trenarren to Portmellon is a strenuous walk (albeit only 5.9 miles each way) with total ascents and descents over 2000 ft each (on a return walk), but normally the views and the points of interest keep the walker going. Unfortunately, the views and the points of interest are few and far between; let me explain.

Starting at Trenarren, the path cuts through a cliff side woodland briefly, before emerging onto a piece of pastureland. The path continues from here squeezed between a barbed wire fence and a high hedgerow meaning you can't see the sea and, with the path being uneven, your eyes are best kept on your feet to avoid tripping. However, after half a mile, you have the option of taking a path spur right out to the tip of Black Head (do it, it is the highlight of the walk in terms of the view).

Black Head sits between St. Austell Bay and Mevagissey Bay and affords good views to Rame Head looking Eastwards (Prawle point in South Devon on a really clear day 46 miles away) and across Mevagissey bay to Chapel Point.

Make the most of this view, because the next mile is just the fields and the hedgerow again!

After passing Hallane cottage and the small cove there, the path climbs steeply through some woods briefly, before once again opening out onto a path squeezed between the barbed wire fence of the pastureland and the high cliff edge hedgerow.

The next excitement, once you've done several climbs, is Pentewen Sands, a lovely beach which, unfortunately has a caravan park running tight along its edge for almost the entire beach. Fortunately, there is a very nice Harbour and access to the beach at the village (East) end.

The harbour is a reminder of the once thriving china clay industry in these parts. One of three harbours built around the 1820's to deal with the transportation of china clay (the others were Charlestown and Par) you can still see remnants of the track that formed the narrow gauge railway that ran from the mines near St. Austell down the valley to Pentewen.

Originally horse drawn, it began operating a small locomotive in 1874 and operated until March 1918, when the tracks and locomotives were requisitioned by the War Office for use in Northern France.

The Harbour has been preserved and damned to make an attractive feature for the village with houses crowded around it. The pub (The Ship Inn) has large marquees covering one end that can be used by dinners and drinkers.

After Pentewen, the path follows the road around Pentewen Sands caravan site and briefly takes you along the main road to Mevagissey (heavy traffic), before running behind a hedge next to the road for 1/2 mile.

Then the path get's very up and down, with one steep descent and then a long ascent, before you begin to drop down again into Mevagissey.

Mevagissey is a working port, with a reasonable fishing fleet still operating from it. The narrow streets are not favourable for traffic, but plenty makes it's way around the village on it's wy to destinations further west along the coast. Add to the traffic, the large number of pedestrians (mainly holidaymakers exploring the village) and it can become crowded quickly!

There are plenty of opportunities to get refreshments, food or souvenirs and many boats offering fishing trips or coastal cruises.

The coast path leaves the village on the far side of the outer harbour by way of steps to a small parkland, before the intrepid walker has to brave the narrow roads the 3/4 mile to Portmellon, where there is a pub and not much else, the picture below shows the extent of the beach there!

Today has taken me past the 500 mile mark though, it was raining but not torrential.

So, in summary, the walk is long and very up and down, the attractions of the walk are Black Head, Pentewan and Mevagissey, if you take this walk on, be prepared to tackle many ups and downs like the one pictured below.